While traveling, we are always on the lookout for outstanding dining and cocktail experiences. While I was in Denver recently working on a project, I set up a reservation to have dinner at The Wolf’s Tailor. This was the last day of the project trip after going to several wonderful speakeasy cocktail bars and was looking forward to dinner. This Michelin starred restaurant (one of three in Denver) operates under a zero-waste sustainable source model. It is in a small commercial corner mostly surrounded by residential structures.
The older building doesn’t allow a lot of room for many tables, but they have created a larger outdoor space and even added several tents with wood firing stoves inside to keep diners warm. Inside, the restaurant has about ten booths in a simple minimal layout without the often-used Michelin star white tablecloths. It had a simple but timeless look. The music playing was contemporary and energetic but still able to blend into the background.
The menu is a seven plus one course tasting menu that changes often. The only choice in the evening I had was the wine pairing with the main dish. One fine approach is that each dish is served by the kitchen staff versus the server, where it is enthusiastically explained and presented. The wine was always provided on the table prior to each dish’s arrival and it was clear the sommelier loves his job. There was no amuse-bouche provided but it wasn’t missed.
All staff were just fabulous, and the service was outstanding. The small space allowed them to move with speed and precision when a guest needed anything and setting up for the next course. They were friendly and eager to chat about anything! I had a great conversation with a couple of staff asking about the hotel and speakeasy we were staying in. They start with you complimentary sparkling or still water that is refreshed the entire evening. Cocktails are available, but I just went right to the wine pairings. Non alcoholic pairings are available as well.
First
The first course was a “snack board” consisting of three different types of savory treats. Oyster with lime jelly, a panna cotta play on miso soup, and a wagyu beef tartare in the form of a tart. It was paired with a Greek Hatzidakis Nykteri from 2020. All items were great. The oyster tasted like the ocean but with some slight spice. The pairing was spot on. The panna cotta had a bit of caviar on top which provided a wonderful texture experience with creaminess and combination of flavors. It was super delightful. The beef tart had various textures from crunchy to soft with a bit of heat on the finish and a great taste. The pairing for this dish was good, but not perfect.
Second
The second course was a bread course with shaved truffles on top, highlighting their fermentation. It included squash miso honey butter and buckwheat. This course was designed to be eaten with your hands. It was fun to just tear into it and it had a variety of flavors. The wine pairing was a Domain Huet Vouvray 2003. The wine had an amber color from the oxidation and was a beautiful wine. All in all though, this course missed the mark on flavors that I prefer. After the course, the staff provided a hot towel. Mine was about as hot as a nuclear reactor core so I had to let it sit a bit. It also had too strong of a chloride smell which made it a bit unpleasant.
Third
The fish was a line-caught mackerel with roe on top and in a very light buttermilk sauce. This course was served with an amber wine, the 2017 La Castellada Sauvignon. The mackerel had no fishy notes and the salty roe worked well. At first, the pairing was good but not great. After a few minutes however and some water, I realized my taste buds needed to calm down a bit and the pairing got progressively better with each bite. The super light sauce had a very nice and bright citrus lemon note.
Fourth
Pork dumplings with a 2021 Meyer-Fonne Edetzwicker wine. Just wonderful! I loved this course so much that I just sat there and experienced the flavors. I didn’t write down a single note other than the word “fabulous!” Just yum.
Fifth
The main course was where you had a choice, and in this case, it was the choice of wine. All they said was the course was beef. I had a choice of a 25-year aged Poley Palo Cortado Sherry or a 2016 Chateau Gloria. I was tempted to go the safe route with the Bordeaux, but I decided to take the road less traveled and try the dry sherry. After the choice, I was served a wagyu beef with wasabi root, wild mushroom, and fermented black bean in a very slight soy sauce. The dish was wonderful. It had a definite umami taste from the beef, wasabi, and soy. The sherry paired extremely well, but it did taste like a sherry – albeit a dry one. This tricked my mind a bit as it wasn’t what you are normally expecting. I love learning new things!
Sixth
Intermezzo ice cream. This was a fun riff on an egg dish. The ice cream was soft and wonderful with a touch of caviar. There was no pairing for this, but luckily I had a little bit of wine from previous glasses I hadn’t finished. It worked best with the Meyer-Fonne (of the ones I had left that is!)
Seventh
The final dessert was an caramelized milk bread, beeswax and rhubarb. Flavors were delicate but it wasn’t fabulous to my taste. The wine was a California 2011 Ca’togni. For me, this was another miss, not only on the dish, but with the pairing.
Eighth
The final course was a buckwheat profiterole with miso caramel. It was served with Japanese tea. It was a wonderful end to the meal.
Since the meal is prepaid in advance, there is no “checkout.” After you’ve finished, they bring a paper that outlines the highlights of your dinner and the pairings and wish you safe travels. Everyone was wonderfully friendly.
Conclusion
The Wolf’s Tailor, a Michelin-starred gem nestled in a quaint residential area, offers a cozy yet innovative dining experience. Despite its limited space, the restaurant has expanded outdoors, providing warmth with wood-fired stoves in covered tents for the winter months. Inside, the ambiance is chic yet understated, with contemporary music adding a lively backdrop. The ever-changing seven-plus-one course tasting menu showcases the kitchen’s creativity, each dish meticulously served and explained by the passionate staff. Highlights include a diverse “snack board” with expert wine pairings and delightful pork dumplings. A standout main course offers a choice between a bold sherry and a Bordeaux, accompanying a succulent wagyu beef dish with unexpected depth. While I had a couple of misses for my taste buds, it is worthy of the one star “high quality cooking, worth a stop” rating. I left satisfied and will likely be back next time I’m in Denver.
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